Spring Summer 1955

Paris

Crepe evening dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) from the Spring Summer 1955 collection. Draped long dress in ivory silk crepe, with large back neckline held in place by two thin straps, immortalized by Robert Doisneau in 1955. Bustier finely pleated in the shape of a heart to emphasize the bust, stapled at the front and held in place by eight metal stays. A 360° amplitude pleated skirt. Thicker crepe underskirt in color. Missing the label. A few small spots of yellowish oxidation on the back, otherwise no major flaws. More collectible than wearable. Good overall structural condition.

Iconography: Photo by Robert Doisneau, 1955. Similar model: Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, Paris.

Dimensions: Equivalent size France 36. Height 144 cm, chest 89 cm, waist 67 cm, hips 94 cm. Dress background 360°, over 10 meters.

Dress published and exhibited at Villa Rosemaine in 2023.

"For a dress to survive from one era to the next, it must be imbued with extreme purity. This is the great secret of a creation's survival." Madame Grès

Germaine Krebs (1903-1993), known as Alix and later Madame Grès, began working in Paris's Faubourg Saint Honoré in 1934. From 1942 to 1988, she moved to 1, rue de la Paix under the name Grès. Her style is famous for its draping and pure lines. She created her first draped dresses from 1934 onwards, using the properties of an innovative jersey fabric.