Circa 1932

Paris

Rare evening coat jacket in black silk taffeta with a waxed effect from the Agnès-Drecoll houses, which merged in 1931. A clever cut with yokes on the bias and puffed sleeves that are the height of haute couture technology. Elegant side surplices emphasise the waist and the skirted effect of the bottom of this jacket. Coat fully lined in black taffeta and woven label indicating Maisons Agnès-Drecoll, Paris, 24 place Vendôme. The seams are finished by hand. No flaws to note. Very good colour and condition.

Dimensions: Equivalent to size 36 France. Height 101 cm, shoulders 39 cm, chest 83 cm, waist 68 cm, hips 90 cm, sleeves 53 cm, turn of sleeve 37 cm.

Agnès-Drecoll is a French haute couture house founded in Paris in 1931. It was formed from the merger of Agnès, founded around 1898, and Drecoll. Agnès appeared in Paris around 1898, and its designer, Mme Havet, who became known as ‘Madame Agnès’, was a former employee of Doucet. Around 1910, her address was 27 rue Louis-le-Grand, before moving to 7 rue Auber. After the First World War, Madame Havet popularised the use of the turban; she developed practical designs, often with exotic motifs, and received considerable press recognition for her hats. In 1931, through the intermediary of a financier (Georges Aubert), the company joined forces with Paris-based Drecoll and became Agnès-Drecoll, opening a boutique at 24 place Vendôme. Drecoll had already merged with Beer before 1928, creating Drecoll-Beer. In 1933, the business was bought out to form a new company called ADEC (Agnès-Drecoll et compagnie). Agnès-Drecoll went into liquidation two years later, and a new company was created in 1937. After the war, Agnès-Drecoll and a number of other designers took part in the ‘Gratitude Train’, an event organised by the Chambre Syndicale following the Théâtre de la Mode. After a period of remission, the House fell victim to the aftermath of the War and was forced to suspend its activities in 1953.