Circa 1949

France

Haute Couture evening dress in chocolate brown stretch silk jersey by the famous Maison Jeanne Paquin, 3 Rue de la Paix, Paris, directed by Antonio Del Castillo and dating from the late 1940s. A long dress with the neo-classical drape typical of this period, as Madame Grès used the same type of jersey. Top draped asymmetrically over one shoulder, falling into a stole in the back and held in place by a pass to the bodice. Skirt with sheath-shaped and mini-train, emphasised at the hips by slit pockets. Whalebone bodice with black cotton bias binding and grosgrain inner waistband. Stapling at the back of the bodice with zip fastening. Lighter brown artificial fibre taffeta lining with matching underskirt. Cream satin label with black lettering indicating Paquin, 3 Rue de la Paix Paris. A few tiny moth holes, notably at the bottom of the stole and skirt. No major defects apart from a slight period patina. Good general condition of colour and conservation.

Dimensions: Equivalent to size 36 France. Chest 85 cm, waist 64 cm, hips 90 cm, height 177 cm

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936) was a great French couturier. She was one of the first to achieve international renown at the end of the 19th century. In 1896, in association with British partners, Jeanne Paquin transferred her headquarters to London, at 39 Dover Street, while keeping her Paris branch. In 1912, she opened a fur boutique at 398 Fifth Avenue in New York, which she entrusted to her half-brother, Henri Joire, and which was designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens. In 1913, she became the first fashion designer to be awarded the Légion d'honneur. President of the Chambre syndicale de la couture from 1917 to 1919, Jeanne Paquin retired in 1920, leaving the management of the company to Henri Joire, and artistic direction to Madeleine Wallis. Ana de Pombo replaced her in 1936, the year Jeanne Paquin died, before handing over to Antonio Canovas del Castillo in 1942. The management of the house was then passed to Colette Massignac, then Lou Claverie, who adapted the style of the collections to the New Look fashioned by Christian Dior. In 1956, Paquin ran out of business due to serious financial difficulties.